Old soul, new tricks
The past is a funny thing. Humans like to pretend to ignore it while simultaneously basing almost everything they do on the events of the past. Some people look at our TVs and phones, seeing how engrossed everyone is in them, and grumble that this generation is uniquely obsessed with technology or entertainment as if previous generations did not gush over playing the gramophone or going to the opera. As much as we might try to pretend otherwise, some things about human nature are innate, and some things are bound to return or, better yet, be “rediscovered” by new generations. The appreciation of beauty and our relentless dedication to reproducing it is a fundamental human behavior, and this is especially evident when it comes to jewelry. Vintage and vintage-inspired jewelry both allow us to peer into a window of our past, step into the shoes of the people who came before us, and connect with our history. Oh, and look absolutely fabulous too. Because true beauty never dies.
Vintage-inspired necklaces: Victorian Vibes
If you thought necklace layering was a modern innovation, think again! Since antiquity, women have sought to maximize their glamor by layering gorgeous necklaces, carefully selecting pieces of different lengths to highlight the individual marvels of each breathtaking layer. Like all things fashion, this preference for the layered look waxed and waned with the passing of time, but it experienced a major revival in the Victorian era. If you search the internet for early photos of Victorian women—particularly royal women—you’ll see stacks on stacks of dazzling necklaces layered to perfection. Historical fashion icons like Alexandra of Denmark combined dog collar-like diamond chokers with flawless strands of pearls and precious gemstone pendants and posed for elegant photographs in the same way that modern fashion influencers do.
If emulating this kind of antique allure is your goal, a fantastic starting point is investing in a classic set of perfect pearls like Mikimoto's Mikimoto Graduated 8.5 x 5.5mm 18/20" A1 double-strand 18kwg pearl necklace. This Mikimoto pearl necklace flaunts a double strand of perfectly round, smooth, and lustrous A1 Akoya pearls—pearls considered by those in the jewelry world to be the “Rolls Royce of pearls”. The upper strand of Mikimoto’s vintage-inspired necklace falls at 18 inches, hitting right around the hollow of the neck, while the lower strand measures 20 inches, falling closer to the breastbone. By creating a double-strand necklace, Mikimoto builds your layering look right into the vintage-inspired necklace’s design, making stacking the rest of your necklaces a breeze. Take a page out of Alexandra’s book, and pair this timeless beauty with a choker or collar necklace for the ultimate classic-meets-contemporary look.
Ever seen a period drama like The Crown, Victoria, or The Great and swooned at the absolutely breath-taking, gemstone-studded necklaces the royal women wear? These formal necklaces are known as “princess necklaces”. Falling between 16 and 18 inches, princess necklaces, as the name suggests, reflect the grand, opulent style of royalty, often featuring jewel-encrusted elements that meet at a large pendant center. Vintage-inspired necklaces like these frequently incorporate vibrant pops of color into their fabulous designs, resulting in alluring, color-filled pieces like Jye's Ruby and Round Diamond Halo Pendant by Jye’s International. Set in 18k white gold, Jye’s International’s vintage-inspired necklace features two diamond swirls on either side of a resplendent 1.42 ct pear-shaped ruby pendant. The .79 ct round diamond swirls meet at the center of the princess necklace and form a protective diamond halo around the ruby focal point, contrasting beautifully with the gemstone’s deep red hue. You could say we’re Turning Red with envy for this radiant ruby necklace.
Vintage-inspired earrings: Renaissance Revival Romance
From the late 1790s to the early 1830s, excavation sites across Europe began uncovering artifacts hidden away since the 14th century. In long-forgotten cities, in crumbled homes and villas, early archeologists stumbled upon everyday items, like pottery or furniture, in addition to precious items, like crowns, fine silver, and, yes, jewelry. When excavators uncovered these hidden gems and studied them closely, they realized that they had not only found Renaissance items; their discoveries also led them to much older artifacts as well, dating to centuries before the common era. The jewelry they uncovered revealed goldsmithing and jewelry techniques that were believed to be lost to time. This ushered in what antique jewelry specialists termed the “Renaissance Revival” and the “Archeological Revival”. Think of the costume design of period pieces like The Tudors versus the many adaptations of Jane Austen’s works. While the clothing is utterly different, the jewelry has the same Renaissance (or Renaissance Revival) feel, because that style of carefully granulated and ornately engraved jewelry is dramatic, dazzling, and most of all: timeless. The impact of these movements completely reinvigorated Italian goldsmithing and Italian fine jewelry design.
It was in this environment of rediscovery and returning to the roots of jewelry design that Mario Buccellati, the latest in a long line of Buccellati family jewelers, honed his craft. Growing up in Italy after the boom of production brought on by this neo-Renaissance movement, Mario Buccellati established a distinctive look that still defines the brand today. Displaying the very best of historical revival styles, the vintage-inspired jewelry of Buccellati reflects multiple layers of history and culture, all expressed through impeccable hand-engraved motifs and reliefs. Take, for example, the Buccellati Opera Pendant Earrings, from the Opera Collection. Inspired by the Italian Renaissance, the flower motif of these two-toned 18k yellow gold and 18k white gold earrings is one that is repeated throughout the collection, prioritizing symmetry and perfection above all else. The flower itself is studded with a plethora of pavé diamonds intended to give the vintage-inspired earrings a “royal look”. Hand-engraved rigato details add dimension to the 18k yellow gold accents at the center of the pendant earrings, while dainty, 18k white gold garlands fan out in elegant arches, repeating a Florentine leaf motif often found in Renaissance art.
Photo by Luke Braswell on Unsplash